Veg to Table: Blood Orange
I used to know that warmer times were coming when a stand of blood oranges would appear outside McCall’s, the fruit and veg shop in Manchester that was round the corner from my old flat. They’d only be there for a couple of months to bridge the gap between late winter and early spring, meaning I’d always feel the need to seize the chance — grabbing three for £1 before even thinking what I might do with them.
While their season is short, it somehow feels like one of the most important windows in the fruit and veg calendar, as it’s a sign that things are finally shifting forward after a long, hard winter — a transition that’s more important now than ever, let’s face it. Our third lockdown has arguably been the hardest out of the lot, and while a citrus fruit can’t take away our pain, it can at least serve as a reminder that we won’t be stuck in this gloomy, post-Christmas lull forever. After all, when blood oranges are on the shelves, the days are also beginning to grow longer, the harsh snowstorms are gradually replaced by brief moments of sunshine. Brighter colours are creeping in, meaning brighter moods may follow.
I was having a particularly bad week when I found my first of the season, having stumbled upon some in my new neighbourhood — where, after moving in the new year, I’m still trying to get my bearings (aren’t we all?). I’d been stomping around in a terrible mood, somehow feeling both heavy and hollow from the relentlessness of it all, when I noticed a small box outside the green grocer’s. They looked like blood oranges, but you can’t always tell from their peel as some will only reveal their ruby red hue once sliced open, so I lifted the crate up to see the label on the side. BLOODORANGES, it confirmed, and I bought two — returning to my house with the beginnings of a spring in my step.
Blood Orange and Fennel Salad
My favourite way to eat oranges is in a salad with lots of crunchy fennel, as the combination always feels like a bit of a nod to the summer. The blood oranges here help us to not get too ahead of ourselves, rooting us to the last stages of winter with their mild cranberry tang, while also adding the colourful flamboyance that evokes the sunshine to come.
This one I actually made this time last year (on the 25th February, to be precise) and was topped off with an almond and fennel seed brittle, based loosely on the caramelised almonds from Meera Sodha’s Fennel and Apple Chaat from Fresh India. I wanted to try some new recipes with my oranges this year, but this remains my go-to, and does wonders to cheer up even the greyest of days.
(Serves 2)
1 blood orange, peeled and sliced or segmented
½ large fennel, thinly sliced
1 bag of watercress (85g or thereabouts)
Zest of half a lemon
1tbsp olive oil
Small handful of sliced almonds
1tsp fennel seeds, roughly chopped or bashed
2tbsp honey
First, make the brittle by toasting the sliced almonds and fennel seeds in a hot pan. Once golden, gather them together in the centre and pour over the honey, stirring through before transferring to a piece of parchment paper or a plate to cool and harden.
Toss the watercress together with the sliced fennel, oil, lemon zest and some sea salt. Lay on a plate, dotting the orange slices or segments around carefully so as not to break them up too much. If your fennel came with its fronds, tear some of those over, too.
Break the brittle into shards over the salad and serve.
This makes a great salad in its own right, but it also goes really well with fish if you wanted to make it more of a substantial meal. Grilled sardines would be perfect, but you can also use tinned — just make sure you get the ones in oil, rather than tomato sauce.
Fish with Blood Orange
The recipe above is tried-and-tested (even if I don’t always bother making the brittle, or use normal oranges instead), but this week I tried to make something a little more appropriate for late winter by taking the same concept and incorporating the flavours into a bake, using trout in place of my usual sea bass for a little more meatiness.
In a baking dish, I laid down some slices of orange — no need to remove the peel, as this breaks down and won’t be eaten — with sliced onion, fennel seeds, bay leaves and olive oil and tossed together. I then placed a piece of trout (salmon would work too) on top, skin side up, rubbing it with oil before baking for 15–20 minutes.
If you then want to take it a step further by turning this into a day-glo orange sauce, remove the fish and place everything else into a saucepan with 1tbsp tomato puree, up to 150ml water (add in batches), 1 tsp balsamic vinegar and 1tbsp honey, boiling to reduce for 5–10 minutes, or until thickened. Give everything a taste and adjust as required — you may need more honey as it can be quite bitter. Pass through a sieve if you want a smoother sauce, or just spoon onto the fish as is.
Chicken with Marsala, Olives and Blood Oranges
In A Bird in the Hand, Diana Henry pairs blood oranges with chicken, marsala wine and olives for a mediterranean vibe, which feels like an apt use of their vibrant, sunny hue. She sprinkles the blood orange slices with sugar after sitting them on top of the chicken and olives, not only allowing them caramelise slightly, but also helping to counteract some of the fruit’s mild bitterness.
As well as in her book, the recipe is available online via Delicious Magazine here.
Rhubarb and Blood Orange Clafoutis
Blood oranges pair well with almonds, meaning they’re perfect for a clafoutis, a French dessert that involves baking fruit in a batter with ground almonds and cream or creme fraiche. For hers, Thomasina Miers adds rhubarb, which is also in season right now, saying: “The orange and rhubarb provide wonderful sharp accents against the sweet, pillowy clafoutis crust.”
I love the ease of a clafoutis, which always tastes far better than you think it should given the little labour involved, and Miers’ version sounds like the ideal springtime twist on the classic. Find the recipe via the Guardian here.
Dehydrated
You can also dry out slices of blood oranges, to be used as a simple but effective cocktail garnish, to decorate cakes, or for whatever you fancy. Minimal effort for maxed-out drama.
Simply slice the oranges thinly and lay out on a baking sheet lined with greaseproof paper, before popping the slices into an oven at 100°C (fan) for a couple of hours — checking every half an hour or so to turn. You’ll know when they’re done, as they’ll feel stiff and dry.
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